Climbing Carabiners – Types

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Information Articles There are many different types of Carabiners, and they are used in many situations. Some models are used for securing items, while others are for rescue and industrial work. There are Carabiners which are manufactured specifically for climbing. Make sure that you have the right ones since not all biners can be used in climbs. Climbing Carabiners may vary depending on the type of gate and shape. In this section, know the different types of Carabiners:

• Shape

  D- Carabiners

  D-shaped Carabiners can either be symmetrical or asymmetrical. Symmetrical Carabiners are used in lead and top rope climbing. They offer more room for the rope and can take more pressure than oval types. On the other hand, asymmetrical biners offer less room but it is easier top clip because of larger gate openings.

  HMS Carabiner is a good example of an asymmetrical D- Carabiner. It is mainly used for securing yourself when you are top roping and also for Belaying. This little device snap closed and the screw is tightened closed to secure them.

  Ever wondered what the HMS stands for in HMS Carabiner? According to Tony Rush, an ABC-of-Rock Climbing.com member who asked a professional instructor in Climbing and rescue, HMS stands for something like “Halbmastwurfsicherung” and is translated from German to English as “Half of a Clove Hitch”. The HMS carabiner has a “pear” shape which is intended to accommodate what is called the “Munter Hitch”, known as the Italian Hitch in Australia and New Zealand. In Europe, the Munter Hitch is identified by another name – the HMS knot and this comes from a German origin. The idea behind the Pear-shaped Carabiner is to provide ample room for the hitch to function properly.

  Oval Carabiners

  These are cheaper and weaker than other non-oval models. The shape helps to control load shifting and distributes the pressure on both sides. Though a bit harder to clip compared to other variations, oval Carabiners are versatile and ideal in aid climbing.

• Gate Type

  Locking

  Unlike non-locking biners, a Carabiner with a locking mechanism prevents the gate from accidental opening. It is often used in Belaying, Rappelling, and securing gear and can be oval, symmetrical, or asymmetrical.

  Wire

  One distinct characteristic of this type is its thinness, therefore providing more room and larger gate opening.

  Straight

  This is the most common gate type. Carabiners with straight gates can be used for many situations.

  Bent

  A bent gate Carabiner has a concave curve. It provides more room and makes clipping easier.

These are the basic types of Carabiners. Each variation is designed for a particular purpose. Never make the mistake of using non-climbing Carabiners. Use the ones which are designed specifically for Rock Climbing.

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