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Rating	5 of 5 stars
Design	internal frame Field Pack
Size	large
Number of Pockets	3
Max. Load Carried	45 lbs
Price Paid	$115
Pack Weight	6.5 lbs
Total size	4026 – 4250 cu inches w/o Patrol Pack

The CFP-90 was my second foray into US Army rucksacks. The medium ALICE Pack was not comfortable for even short(er) hikes, and I wanted something with an internal frame and a hip belt. I looked at several civilian internal frame backpacks at local retailers, but none of them ‘turned me on’. The suspension systems were well designed, the size was right, but they were either too expensive, or ugly, or ‘just not right’. I then looked online for various military designs, and saw some very well made packs in the $300-$700 range. These bags were simply out of question! I am used to buying surplus military gear way below retail prices, and somebody wants $300 for a backpack? No way. After some more searching on the internet, I came upon an obscure pack made for the US Army, and never used. The CFP-90 was designed as a replacement for ALICE gear, but never adopted. The Army started using MOLLE gear instead. Which, I suppose, is good for the Army, and great for the civilian hiker because surplus Army gear became even cheaper and easier to get.

I purchased the CFP-90 on eBay for a little over $100 including shipping. The seller stated this was a genuine US Army issue pack, and not some copy. I did see many sellers advertising “improved” versions of the CFP-90, but having read these types of bags are usually inferior, I did not even look at them. My pack arrived a few days later, and after inspecting the tag, I believe this is the real deal. It is made by ‘Specialty Plastic Products of PA’. After a few searches online, this company appears to be SDS (Specialty Defense Systems), a known manufacturer of Army gear.

The best feature of this pack is the suspension system. It is composed of two aluminum mainstays, and a vertically adjustable shoulder strap attachment system. The best way to think of this is like a ‘modified zipper’. There is a plastic ‘ladder’ and the internal triangle rides up and down, and then securely fixed at one point with two large screw heads. The shoulder straps are also attached at the top of the pack. There is a foam pad that rides in the small of your back to keep the backpack away from the body, to maximize air flow, and minimize sweating. This may look strange, but works great. The hip belt is 5″ wide in the back, and narrows to 3″ in the front. It is heavily padded for maximum comfort while carrying heavy loads. There is 3/4″ of padding sewn inside the hip belt. There is a strap that goes on the outside of the entire hip belt, and it can be used to attach ALICE compatible gear all the way around. The shoulder straps are 3″ wide, and also have 3/4″ of padding inside. These are an enormous improvement over the old school ALICE shoulder pads. There is a old style quick release buckle on each strap, as well as a metal ‘clamp’ to adjust the length of the shoulder strap. The CFP-90 also has a sternum strap, which has become standard in all modern packs. Because of the design of the suspension system, this pack is very adjustable. It can ride high, or low on your back, and be as close or far away from your body as you like. Because of it’s size, in order to carry a large load, one really needs to tailor the suspension to fit your body. There are two openings on either side of the shoulder straps for a radio antenna, or a drinking tube for a water bladder.

There are two main compartments. They are separated by a false bottom, so if you had to carry an oversize item inside, the two compartments can become one. Fully expanded the top compartment measures 20″ x 14″ x 8″. This is possible because there are two draw cords on top, for two levels of ‘fullness’. If it is stuffed to a ‘less full’ level, the top compartment measures 18″ x 14″ x 8″. The 8″ depth is measured on the side, if you were to stuff a rectangular box inside. Because the pack is usually stuffed with clothes, and other irregular objects, the actual size is somewhat different. The pack stretches to accommodate whatever is inside. This compartment is compressed via two cinch down webbing in the front. The lower compartment is designed for the sleeping bag. It is a little bit deeper than the top compartment, and measures 10.5″ x 10.5″ x 14″. This compartment is closed via dual YKK self-healing zippers, and cinch down webbing with buckles. If the false bottom is undone the maximum pack size is 31″ x 8″ x 14″.

On the right side there is a large pocket that measures 18″ x 6″ x 3.5″. It is closed via a draw cord, and a flap on top. The flap is secured by a cinch strap, and there is a second cinch strap closer to the bottom. You can fit a small tent, or a bivvy bag inside. On the left side there are two smaller pockets. They measure 9.5″ x 6″ x 3.5″, and are also closed via a draw cord, and flap on top. There is a cinch strap that secures the top flap, and compresses whatever is inside the pocket. There are two loops sewn in on front, above the sleeping bag compartment. They can be used to attach a sleeping pad, tent, or anything else you can think of. On the bottom there are two rows of webbing to attach even more gear. You can hang a tent, sleeping bag, etc there. They are far apart, so this is not a MOLLE compatible configuration.

The fabric is said to be waterproof nylon. It does not look rubberized on the inside like my MOLLE Assault packs. I have carried around 45 pounds inside this pack, and it is very comfortable; surely heavier loads can be carried. Properly adjusted, a lot of the weight sits on your hips, so it does not feel nearly as heavy as a lighter ALICE pack without the hip belt. I have stopped using the CFP-90 for most of my camping trips because there is no need for so much space for a 2-3 day trip. If I was to go camping for a week, this pack would definitely be on my back. There is an optional Patrol Pack that can be attached to the top of the CFP-90 for extra storage, and for day hikes. The patrol pack is not comfortable because there is no framesheet, and everything bunches up and hurts my back. I never take it with me anyway, because there has never been a need for more space.

You can buy a genuine CFP-90 Field Pack on eBay. Beware of reproductions and fakes. The real US Made military version will have an NSN number.  

$90.00

$140.00

$179.99

$120.00

$171.99

$171.99

$171.99

$80.00

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Rating	3 of 5 stars
Design	internal frame rucksack
Size	medium
Number of Pockets	0
Max. Load Carried	untested
Price Paid	$18
Pack Weight	3.5 lbs
Total size	2240 cu inches

This little sucker was purchased ‘for the fun of it’ online at SportsmansGuide.com for $18 including shipping. I was searching for a good BOB pack at that time, and this seemed like it would fit the bill. Indeed, it could. Cheap, no nonsense construction, perfect to throw in your trunk or closet for an emergency. This pack is said to be made of waterproof nylon. Looks like the fabric is vulcanized on the inside. It is well worn, and some of the pattern is faded away.

I have never used this pack, and having it on my back for a few minutes is not a good field test. The straps are 2.5″ wide, and padded with about 1/2″ of foam. They may have been a little thicker at one point, but after heavy use they are not as thick. They are attached to the back of the backpack, and also via adjustable straps to the top. This allows for a few inches of up and down play to accommodate different body lengths and/or position on your back. Each shoulder strap is reinforced with a webbing strap on the outside, and that’s sewn in on the bottom, near the hip belt. The hip belt is padded on the sides, where it would actually ride on your hips. There is a 1.5″ wide ‘belt’ all the way around, and it buckles in the front. All of the stitching is top notch, and this very used pack has held up great. There are several soldier’s names written all over, so I assume it has been passed down more than once. One interesting feature is the rain flap. It is attached to the top of the pack, in the back. When not in use, it is rolled up to expose the shoulder straps and hip belt. When it is down, there is Velcro all the way around the edge, to cover and protect the suspension and back panel. For a pack this old, it features an ingenious internal mainstay suspension system. There are two aluminum bars inside thin pockets designed to hold them in place. This is inside the main compartment, against the back panel. On the very top, there is a horizontal bar to keep the mainstays spread apart. Originally this was held together with pop rivets, but one of them came apart, and I replaced both with a short bolt, locking washer and a nut. It is all hidden by a small flap, attached with Velcro. For military rucksack of this age, this system is way better than the US ALICE Pack design. Check out the pictures to see what I mean.

There is only one compartment, with a map pouch on the inside. This compartment measures 20″ x 14″ x 8″. On each side there are zippers to attach additional pouches. I believe this system is very similar to Snugpak Rocket Pack design. On top of the main compartment there are two thin cinch straps that could accommodate a wide bedroll, sleeping pad, tent or whatever. There are numerous ‘male ends’ of small buckles to attach other pouches on top, sides and bottom. I am not familiar with the British packs, so there is nothing to be said for these pouches. The dual zippers go about 1/2 way around the main compartment. My zipper has seen better days, and one of the zippers actually broke off during testing. If I ever use this pack, the main zipper will have to be replaced with something newer and heavier duty. There is a dual flap to keep rain from leaking through the zipper. There are also two nice wide carrying handles on the back and on the front of this pack. I think if there is a very heavy load, two men can carry it side by side.

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Whenever I have been camping in the past, and to this day, I have always made sure that my tent is always protected from the elements. I do everything that I can to make sure my tent is protected from the wind elements as well, so that my tent does not suffer damage by being dealt with a smack of wind hitting the tent.

To help you protect your tent from the elements and from the wind, known as guying, I will tell you how to guy out a tent by your own.

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Via www.rei.com

​Before I show you how to guy out a tent, we should get a fact out of the way – you don’t need to guy out your tent all the time. Certain situations such as a sunny or cloudy day do not require you to use a guy line cord on your rain fly. In these cases, you can just set up your tent the normal way and then add guy line cord to the tent when needed.

If you were to keep on using the guy line cords all the time, then it would be a waste of effort. Best to enjoy your camping without having to work harder than you need to do.

Via www.amazon.com

This is one that I personally use to make sure that my tent does not move in terms of preventing the wind from blowing the tent over. Having these tent stakes do not cost a whole lot, depending on what kind of tent you have, but I can guarantee that once the tent stakes are in the ground with the tent rope attached to it, the tent will be difficult to move.

The other great benefit about tent stakes, when it comes to guying out your tent, is that you can carry them around with you. That means that you are guaranteed to have a tent that is guyed out on almost every single occasion.

I personally recommend that you buy a variety of tent stakes to make sure that you have tent stakes for all kinds of terrain. You might get yourself some tent stakes that are designed to be put in gravel, or you might get some tent stakes for loose soil. As long as you know what kind of tent stakes that you are going to use, it will be easy to plant those stakes in the ground to provide wind protection.​

Set your tent up near trees or nearby plants.​

I once did this when it was pouring with rain and wind. What I found was that having a tree or a plant to shield my tent from the wind and the elements made it easy to wrap the guy line around the trunk of a tree. All I had to do is tie a simple knot and then make sure that the guy line was tied around the plant or tree properly.

The great benefit of this, of course, is that you don’t have to carry much with you when it comes to Guying out the tent. All you have to do is find a nearby plant that is strong enough to with stand the wind and tie your guy line tent string to the plant. Plus, it costs very little money. Knowledge of plants, knots and awareness of your location is all is needed to know how to guy out a tent in this way.​

Plus, if you set your tent close enough to the plant, the plant may shield the tent from the elements. This is because, if set up properly, the tree or the plant can act as a shade. So rain, dirt or excess sunshine is deflected with the plant.

Position your tent in a certain way to prevent wind and water issues.

One of the things that I do to make sure that my tent is protected from the wind elements is to make sure that the smaller side of my tent is facing the wind. I also make sure that my tent doors are facing away from the tent. This allows better guying out of the tent because the tent is less likely to be effected by the elements.

The reason I do that is twofold. Firstly, having the smaller side of tent facing the wind lowers the resistance of the tent against the wind. This all has to do with surface area – the more of the tent that is facing the wind, the more likely the wind is going to affect the stability of the tent.

The other reason why I do this is because if it is raining and windy, the rain will go into your tent via the tent doors. So the further away from the wind and rain the tent doors are, the more likely your tent is going to stay dry.It is also worth noting that for better wind stability, the side with the strongest poles should be facing the wind.​

Regularly adjusting the ten guy line ropes for tension.​

I think this is a simple but important to understand – your guy lines on the tent are going to work differently in certain kinds of conditions. If it’s very windy or it is raining a whole lot, you will have to adjust the tension in the guy line ropes to ensure that the tent stays intact.

If, though, you feel that not adjusting the guy line is not going to make one bit of a difference, then packing more guy line cords will do the trick. You can add more guy line cords to the rain fly as you wish without having to adjust the tension of the cords. I personally bring around 10 just in case that one snaps and I need to make sure that I plenty of spare cords to attach to my tent.

It’s best to do the tension adjustment before the weather event happens. Make sure that you have access to a weather forecast, either on a print out or via the radio. That way, you can make those adjustments as soon as possible.​

Select a spot where your tent is least likely to be affected by the elements.​

This ties in with the first three points, but it’s worth mentioning to know how to guy out a tent. Choose an area where you can pitch the guy line of your tent properly while providing extra protection against the elements.

Avoid broken trees or plants and in low areas between high areas. This all has to do with wind – these scenarios allow the wind to blow your tent off and make your camping experience miserable. Plus, having the rain to deal with in these cases will make guying out the tent difficult.​

Final thoughts.​

Thank you for reading my ideas on how to guy out a tent. I understand that there are many people out there who do not know how to guy out their tent.

That is why I wrote this article. If you have any questions, feel free to ask by using the comment section below. All enquiries are welcome and all questions will be answered as soon as possible.​

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Over the past couple of years, I have camped in some interesting places. From shelters that have been assembled using wood and branches nearby, to 10-man tents that provide you with scenic views. All of them have provided great experiences and I have some great memories in them.

I, however, am going to tell you about the best truck tents that you can buy right now. Based on my recent experience on using truck tents, I can provide you with some advice on what to look out for and what you should think about when buying a truck tent as well.

More…

		Polyester and nylon taffeta
DAC Full – Size Truck Tent
Sportz Truck Tent Blue/Grey​
Guide Gear 6-by-6-Foot Compact Truck Tent
Napier Backroadz Truck Tent
Kodiak Canvas Truck Bed Tent

**Below, you’ll find our more detailed reviews, but you can also click the links above to see current prices or read customer reviews on Amazon

Via Amazon.com

What I love about this truck tent is that it is a lightweight tent. That means that you don’t have to deal with problems such as getting the tent onto the back of the truck. Plus, with the tent easy to set up, this tent will make your camping trip in the truck easier.

Sleeping inside this wonderful truck tent is something else, though. There is lots of head room inside. That means that you don’t have to worry about hitting your head on the top of the truck tent.

Plus, since you won’t be technically be sleeping on the ground (due to the truck tent having it’s own floor), you can be as comfortable as possible. Cleaning up the tent is easier.

• Lightweight.
• Easy to set up.
• Lots of headroom.

• Not suitable for more than two people.

Via www.amazon.com

This is an excellent tent for those who have no idea what kind of size of tent that they should buy. It can fit on the end of SUV’s, carrier racks and air foils. What that means is that this truck is convenient for those who want to take their camping trips with friends who are taking different cars with them.

The main feature that a lot of people have noticed about this truck tent is that it is very easy to use. Setting up the tent is a breeze because you can adjust the truck tent to your car specifications. I personally love that because I have been on trips with these truck tents and it can be a pain to set up these tents on cars where the tent does not fit exactly to specification.

Most importantly, this tent can be used in all kinds of weather. Very few leaks occur in heavy rain and can keep out those pesky mosquitos.

• Can fit SUV’s and full sized vehicles.
• Can fit on carrier racks and air foils.
• Can be set up in less than five minutes.

• Cannot fit on trucks with external rear-mounted spare tires.

​Via www.amazon.com

One of the features of this tent that I really like that this tent is great in all sorts of weather. Once the weather has dried out, the tent can dry itself very nicely because the materials of the tent are great at repelling the harshest of weather conditions.

What I also like is that this tent has excellent ventilation. This matters a whole lot because it can help keep your tent odor-free. That, in return, helps keep your tent as clean as possible. The tent also provides a sense of openness through the see-through windows, making this tent even better to use.

With this tent being as sturdy as any other tent, this truck tent can meet many of the basic needs that someone might expect from a tent. I personally think that this tent provides more than you need from such a tent with lots of great ventilation and open scenery.

• Comes in two different sizes to suit your needs.
• Sturdy.
• Provides excellent ventilation and openness.

• Can take a bit of time to set up.

Via www.amazon.com

If you are looking for a tent where you can precisely decide what kind of tent that you want, then this product has to be it. With seven different sizes to choose from, you have as many choices as ever on what kind of tent that you want on your truck.

As well as having a great fly that allows water to be repelled effectively, this tent is truck friendly because it provides extra protection against straps. That way, the truck is protected against scratch damage etc.

With no need for guide ropes, this tent should be perfect for those who like choice in their lives when they are out there camping.

• Comes in seven different sizes.
• Has no need for guide ropes.
• Provides extra protection for trucks against straps.

• Poles are very long, can stretch and break the seams of the tent.
• The tent materials can break easily.

What I find great about this tent is it’s sturdiness. This is due to the fiberglass poles which makes this tent difficult to push over. That’s because the fiberglass poles are so strong, ensuring that the tent can stand up tall in adverse conditions. You don’t want the truck tent to fly off your truck as you are sleeping.

Also, along with the fiberglass material of the poles, this tent is easy to set up. Although this tent has received complaints about the length of the poles, many customers have not had that sort of issue. In fact, as someone who has experienced using this tent, I can tell you that it is easy to set up because the tent could fit on the truck easily.

Plus, with the truck tent coming in nice packaging, this tent can make your life easy when you are out there camping in the outdoors on your truck. Unless you have to deal with heavy rain, where the fly does leak, this tent can be brilliant to use.

• Easy to assemble.
• Comes in nice packaging.
• Tent poles made out of fiberglass – makes tent sturdy.

• Truck tent can leak water in heavy rain, even with the fly on.

Via Amazon.com

The storm flap is something else, though. What I find great about the storm flap of this truck tent is that it enhances privacy. That means that you can sleep well knowing that you know someone will find it difficult to see what you are doing in your tent. The flap also works brilliantly in heavy rain.

With this tent, the first feature that you notice with this tent is that there are five different sizes to choose from. Like this previous product that we discussed, this product gives you lots of choices in terms of what kind of tent that you can select for your truck.

Along with the 1-year warranty, this tent is excellent if you want a specific tent on your truck and you value your privacy.

• Comes with a 1-year limited warranty.
• Has a storm flap; enhances privacy.
• Comes in five different sizes.

• Tent poles can snap easily.
• Instructions can be a bit hard to understand.

Here are some ideas on what you should look out for when buying a truck tent:

1. Can you wash the tent?

Let’s be honest about truck tents – they are just as likely to get as dirty as some tent that is pitched on some muddy grounds. Being able to clean the tent is something that should be taken seriously because otherwise the materials of the truck tent can break down easily. You don’t want to have to fork out thousands of dollars more for another truck tent, otherwise.

It is best to look for truck tents with waterproof materials. This is good because these tents can dry out quicker and you don’t have to damage the tent with water from the hose. If the tent can be cleaned with a hose attached to a brush, then all the better.

2. Can you clean the tent?​

Cleaning the tent is slightly different to washing the tent because we are talking about getting rid of things that you don’t need such as dust or odors that make the tent smell like a junkyard. This is important because you don’t want to have a truck tent that makes your life miserable. Especially those with illnesses such as asthma or air-borne diseases.

You want to get a truck tent that is constructed with materials that can be easily cleaned and do not cause odors. If these materials do cause odors or make it impossible to clean the tent, then make sure that you can at least clean the truck tent easily without fuss. Otherwise you won’t be having a great time in your truck tent.

3. What is the interior like?​

​Like all tents, truck tents are all dependent on how much room that you have inside your tent. It’s especially important for truck tents because they are designed to be placed on the back of the truck. So if you have an truck tent that has a large interior, then chances are you might not fit the tent onto the back of the truck.

That’s unless though that your truck tent is high and roomy to the point that you can sit up comfortably. When you can do that, you know that your tent is perfect for camping. The general rule for interiors of buying tents is that the more room there is, the happier you will be.

4. What are the materials the truck tent is made out of?​

This has sort of been covered in the washing the tent and cleaning the tent section, but it deserves special mention. Nobody wants to buy a truck tent that is going to break and tear easily because of some change in the weather or because you cleaned the truck tent for so long that the materials started to break.

Generally, the more expensive the tent is, the higher the quality of the materials the tent is made out of is better. Choose materials such as Nylon or some other truck tent where the material can last for a very long time in adverse conditions.

If, however, you are going on rare camping trips, then you don’t have to necessarily worry about the material of the truck tent is made out of as you can replace the tent with another truck tent cheaply.

5. How well constructed is the truck tent?​

What I tend to look at when thinking about the construction of the truck tent is the seams that hold the tent together. If there is a double seam or the seams of the tent have been specially enforced, then chances are you have a well-constructed tent. Little things such as the design of the tent foot or quality of the tent poles matter as well.

If you are not sure about the design of the truck tent, consult an expert before you buy a truck tent. You don’t want to buy a tent that ends up being a dud because you made a bad decision to buy a poorly constructed truck tent.

​The winner of this line up has to be Kodiak Canvas Truck Bed Tent. The ventilation features and the openness of the tent gives you a great experience while you are camping. Along with being sturdy, this tent can handle all kinds of weather.

If you have any more enquiries or you want to ask a question, then feel free to put a comment down below this article and we’ll get back to you as soon as possible. We value all feedback and all enquiries are welcome.

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Are you planning to go on camping but you are unsure if your tent is waterproof? Then knowing how you can effectively make it waterproof and ensuring that the one that you have would be essential. This will make sure that you will stay protected even if it starts raining while you are in a camp.

Most of the tents available today whether a single tent, a 10 person tent, a cabin tent or even a truck tent are waterproof, but as time passes by this can become a problem since the vulnerability properties will start appearing. You wouldn’t want waking up with the water slowly dripping on your body. This is the reason why waterproofing your tent is essential.

Now if you are unsure if your newly purchased tent or the tent that you already have stored in your home is waterproof, then knowing how to waterproof a tent is ideal.

The first thing that you need to do is to start checking the tent for holes, tears, or rips. You need to pay attention to the rainfly and the floor of your tent. If there are any rips, it would be best to clean the area using the clean cloth and rubbing alcohol. Rub the area gently and let it completely dry.

Once you are done cleaning the area, you can start covering it with an adhesive that is included in a tent patch kit. Carefully place it on the spot that is damaged and applies pressure using a paperweight or a book. Follow the tent patch kit’s instruction as to how long the adhesive should be securely be pressed by a paperweight before releasing it.

​Waterproofing Your Tent #2 Inspecting the Seams of Your Tent

The next thing that you need to do is to check the seams of the floor and rainfly of your tent. Typically the seams that are sealed have shiny coating covers that are used to seal holes that are small. Now if you notice that the seams are not completely sealed or if they are starting to flake away, then cleaning the seams using the clean cloth and alcohol is the first step and let them dry.

Once they are completely dry, you can start applying a thick seam sealant in each of the seams. You need to let the seams of your tent to dry completely, and this will usually take an hour. After an hour, you start applying another sealant coat and wait for it to dry before proceeding to the next step.​

​Waterproofing Your Tent #3 Checking the Rainfly and Floor of Your Tent

Check the rainfly and the floor of your tent if both of them has already a coating of waterproof. You will know that it has a coating if the material is looking glossier. You may of course still apply just to make sure, but clean the surfaces before applying anything.

Once you are done, you can start using the waterproofing agent to your tent. You should equally implement the agent and let it completely dry before you start doing the next step.

Waterproofing Your Tent #4 Testing Your Tent​

Once everything has dried up, the last thing that you need to do is to test your tent. Wash a tent using a garden hose to test it. You can wash every area of your tent, and there are any leakage and dampness, you need to re-treat those areas again. Repeat the process as necessary until you ensure that there are no leaks and such once you start spraying the tent again​

Here’s a video on how to waterproof your tent.​

The first thing that you need to do is to clean the canvas tent before treating it. You can use a clean cloth and rubbing alcohol to clean your tent. Rub every part of the tent to ensure that it is clean once you start waterproofing it.

Waterproofing Canvas Tent #2 Spraying Fluoropolymer Based Product and Brushing Petroleum Sealant​

Once you are done cleaning your canvas tent, you can start spraying it with a fluoropolymer based product. This will help in actually waterproofing the canvas tent. Let Your canvas tent dry up for you to be able to test it.

You may also use a petroleum sealant as this is also a good way to waterproof your canvas tent. Using a brush, apply the sealant and start cleaning it on the tent and of course, let it completely dry.​

Waterproofing Canvas Tent #3 Testing the Canvas Tent​

Using a bucket with water, start tossing the water to the canvas tent. If the water starts going through the fabric, then this means that you have to repeat respraying it or brush with petroleum sealant.​

Conclusion

These are all the information on how to waterproof a tent for your next camping trip. You no longer have to worry about water dripping in to your tent, because if you follow these tips, you will surely be able to securely waterproof your tent, keep you and your family dry.​

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Have you just got back from a camping trip and is looking for ways on how to wash a tent? The worry no more because the information below will provide you with everything that you need when it comes to washing your tent.

One of the most important things that you should have when it comes to going to a camp with your family or friends is having a tent. The tent is where you will be sleeping or resting at the end of extended camping activities. But since it is exposed to certain environmental elements, it can become dirty, and stains may also affect the appearance of your tent.Some people end up purchasing a new one, which can be costly.

But if you can wash your tent then there wouldn’t be a problem at all. Washing them is very easy, but this does not mean that you can easily just throw it in your washing machine and push certain buttons that you prefer. A tent has a delicate fabric and ensuring that you are doing the right thing will ensure that you will preserve its quality.

More…

• Garden Hose
• Big Sponge
• Soft Scrub Brush
• Bucket
• Mild Dishwashing Soap
• Cold Water

The first thing that you need to do is spread your tent in your yard or space where you can freely and comfortably work on your tent.

You need to make sure that the area is free from wrappers, dog hair, pine needles and any other types of debris. It would be best to work on your tent during the warm and sunny day. Once you are done spreading your tent, it would be best to remove all debris from the tent so you can start working on it.

​Washing Your Tent #2 Gathering the Supplies

​The next thing that you need to do is to start collecting all the supplies that you need to use for cleaning your tent. The garden hose should be nearby and as well as the source of water.

The sponge should be big while the soft brush should look just like the one that you are using for your vegetables. The bucket of water is needed as this is where you will be mixing the water and mild dishwashing soap to create a solution.

​

Washing Your Tent #3 Scrubbing Your Tent​

​Using the bucket of water with the dishwashing soap, soak the sponge and wring it to remove the excess water.

Once you are done, you can start scrubbing all the surfaces of your tent, from the outside to the inside. Gently do this to avoid damaging your tent since as mentioned above, tents have fabrics that are very delicate.

Washing Your Tent #4 Brushing Your Tent​

Now if there are any stains present on the outsides or insides of your tent, then the soft brush will help you remove them. You can soak the brush in the bucket with the water solution as it will make it easier for you to remove the stains. The brush can also be used to clear the corners of your tent since the sponge won’t be able to reach that part.

When brushing, just like when it comes to the scrubbing process, it would be best to do this very gently no matter how big the stain is. It will eventually come off with the help of the water and soap solution.

Washing Your Tent #5 Rinsing Your Tent​

Now once you have removed the dirt and the stains, the next thing that you need to do is to rinse the tent using the garden hose. You can ask someone to help you hold the tent down or spread it once the pressure of the garden hose starts affecting the tent’s position.

When rinsing, you need to thoroughly do this and repeat the process for you to ensure that there will be no residue of soap left.

Washing Your Tent #6 Letting Your Tent Dry​

After rinsing and ensuring that there is no longer residue of soap, you can now let the tent dry. You have the option to hang it on a clothing line in your backyard and secure it with clothing clips for it to avoid from being blown by the wind.

You also need to ensure that the clothing line is long enough to accommodate your tent since you need to spread it out for it to thoroughly dry. If you don’t have a clothesline, then you can drape it on your fence or some lawn chairs.

Washing Your Tent #7 Storing Your Tent​

Check your tent if there are no longer any wet surface, and if there are one, then this is the time where you can store your tent. You can carefully fold it and put it back in its original box, or if you have a place where you can store it then putting it back, there would be best.

You can use a storage box that is clean to ensure that your tent will remain dirt free. This will also ensure that your tent’s quality will be preserved so you can use it again for your next camping trip​.

These are all the information that you need on how to wash a tent with ease. You no longer need to hire someone to do the cleaning for you because the tips provided above will help you keep your tent clean.

Did you enjoy the tutorial above on how you can wash your tent? Then sharing this article with your friends is a must. Don’t forget to share your thoughts in the comments section below.​

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• →The Best Tent Heater For Staying Warm This Winter.

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For a couple of years now, I have been using tent heaters to keep warm inside my tent. These devices have made sure that whenever I use them, I don’t have to sit inside with lots of layers of clothing and I don’t have to shiver inside my sleeping bag. Plus, it makes my guests feel warm and welcome as well whenever I invite them over.

To show you just how great these tent heaters are, I’ll show you the best tent heaters available right now and what you should look out for when you are buying one.

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**Below, you’ll find our more detailed reviews, but you can also click the links above to see current prices or read customer reviews on Amazon.

What I find cool about this tent heater is that it is a light one. It uses 16 ounces or a 14.1 ounce propane cylinder to produce heat for the tent . What this means is that with this tent heater, you can carry it in your bag while you are out there in the woods backpacking. The carrying handle makes the task of carrying the heater easier.

As for the safety features, you get an auto shutoff valve. This valve is designed to shut off fuel whenever the flame is extinguished. That means that there is no fuel wasted, nor is there any chance of flammable materials to ignite should there be any electrical problems with the equipment that you are using in your tent that could ignite the fuel.

Along with that safety feature is the safety grid and aluminum reflector, which reduces the chances of the heater coming in contact with flammable materials.

In terms of stability, the propane tent heater uses a paddle foot base to make sure that the heater stays still while you are in the tent. No one would want that heater to fall on over and cause damage to your tent and belongings.

With the heater able to adjust to 2890 BTU with the control knob, this tent heater is perfect for those who are looking for a small, compact but able to produce a good amount of heat.

• Can heat up to 2890 BTU.
• Lightweight.
• Shuts off fuel when flame is extinguished.

• Propane bottle lasts for only 3.5 – 4 hours long.

• Noisy

I have personally used this tent heater on numerous occasions whenever I have been camping with large groups. These heaters can produce up to 18000 BTU, with a minimum of 4000 BTU of heat that can be produced. This makes this tent heater perfect for those who have large tents. It is so great, that this tent heater can heat up to 300 ft. of space. 

In terms of safety features, it has an auto shut off if the heater is tipped over onto it’s sides, light is extinguished or the oxygen around the heater is low. This makes it a great device to have in cramped spaces where you know that the tent heater will be safe around flammable objects.

I especially like that this tent heater can operate about up to 7000 feet. That means that you can take this tent heater almost anywhere. Three temperature controls help you control the heater in all conditions as well.

This is definitely a great heater for those who are camping in large groups.

• Can produce between 4000 – 18000 BTU.
• Can operate in high altitudes.
• Safety features allow the heater to shut off when tipped over, low oxygen levels are sensed or the pilot light goe out.

• Does not come with it’s own propane bottle.

It is quite uncommon to find a tent heater that uses electricity and propane gas at the same time. This one, however, does.

What I find so simple about this propane – electrical heater is that the set-up is simple. All you have to do is attach the tent heater to a 12V power supply and a propane tank. Once that is done, you can switch the tent heater on and enjoy up to 40000 BTU’s of hot air in seconds.

Transportation is quite easy as well. This tent heater comes in it’s own gear bag. That allows you to carry it on your shoulders as you backpack in the great outdoors. So this 34 pound tent heater should not be a problem for those who hate carrying heavy belongings.

To top it all off, this tent heater can connect easily to a five gallon propane tank. This means that you will be enjoying using this tent heater for a long period of time. Especially in those harsh winters when you want a tent heater to keep you warm for very long time.

• Produces 40000 BTU’s of heat.
• Attaches easily to a 5 gallon propane tank.
• Compact size.

• Requires a power supply to operate.

• No propane tank included.

This tent heater is arguably the most space saving tent heater on this list. What makes this heater so special is that it can be hung from the roof of the tent with a 0.5 m ceiling chain. That means that you can save space and you can fit more of your belongings in your tent without the problem of your tent heater.

Along with the stylish aluminum design, the halogen quartz heating technology allows heat to be created instantly. Plus it has built in tip over and safety cut outs in case of overheating. This makes this heater just as safe as any other heater on this list. 

The silent design as well allows the heater to operate quietly while you are doing something great with your time inside your tent. For example, you can read quietly or while you are sleeping. The lack of fumes as well from this tent heater helps a long way with no toxic health problems in store for you.

Overall, a great tent product worth trying.

• Stylish.​
• Saves space.
• Produces no fumes.

• Can cover only a small space (6m^2).

I have got to say, this electric tent heater can produce a fair bit of heat (5000 BTU) for a heater of it’s size. Weighing around 14 pounds this tent heater is compact and can be easily carried around in your back pack. Originally designed to be use inside work tents, this tent heater serves just as well as a camp heater.

To be fair though, this tent heater does require a large 120V outlet. This allows the tent heater to produce around 1500 W of heat, which is suitable for a medium sized area such as a 5-person tent.

What I especially like about this tent heater is that is durable. Due to the metal casing, this tent heater can withstand the hard knocks that often comes with camping in nature. If forever reason you drop this tent heater, rest assured that this heater is durable enough to handle that problem.

• Great for a medium sized room.
• Small and light weight.
• Can be both used for camping and for work.

• Requires a large power supply to operate.

What kind of tent heater you want will depend on how much you are prepared to pay to keep the heater running in the long term. There are at least three kinds of tent heaters that you should consider when making that choice:

These heaters are great because you don’t need to use any kind of gas to power this heater. One of the things, though, about using electric heaters inside your tent is that you have to have a power supply with the heater. If you want to spend a bit of time recharging your battery nearby a place with a plug socket than refilling gas canisters, then choose this option.

Not many people use kerosene heaters these days for heating up their tent. Compared to other kinds of tent heaters, kerosene heaters are expensive to run because of the cost of the kerosene fuel. People who buy tent heaters tend to stick to propane and electric heaters.

Arguably one of the popular choices for tent heaters on the market. Compared to kerosene heaters, these propane heaters are cheap to run because you don’t need a power supply. Plus, people like that they can keep extremely warm in those harsh winters while using cheap propane. 

This is one of the overlooked aspects of buying a tent heater. If you are using a 10-person tent, then obviously you would want to get a tent heater that is large enough to keep ten people warm at the same time. That might require you to get a tent heater that uses up a whole lot of fuel.

Or, if you are only in a tent by yourself or with one another person, then you might want to focus on a tent heater that only uses up a small amount of fuel for one or two people.

Either way, you want to make sure that you get a tent heater that is appropriate for your tent. You don’t want to be spending hundreds of dollars on fuel for two people when you can get a tent heater that makes you spend less money.

Via Travis Nep Smith

There are two reasons why you should think about the safety of the tent heater. 

When you are in a tent, you are surrounded by flammable materials such as the nylon or the polyester in your clothes or sleeping bag. Were the heat from the tent heater to ignite the materials in your tent, there would be a serious accident. I have seen incidents where someone has a tent heater that has set their belongings in the tent on fire because the tent heater had electrical problems or the heater was so large, it was near their belongings.

Heaters tend to use up a whole lot of oxygen in the tent. If you slept with the heater on at night, then you might experience headaches or, in rare cases, die because of the toxic fumes in your tent. It is important, then, to buy a tent heater that minimizes those ventilation problems.

There are many tent heaters that are normally designed to be portable. You can find some tent heaters that can fit right into your backpack and all you have to do is to take the heater out of the bag and turn it on in a suitable spot in your tent.

However, there are other tent heaters that are so large, because they are designed to warm up large tents, that you have to transport them directly to your tent site by car or by some other device. What you buy is largely dependent on your budget and the number of people who you are bringing to figure out if you want to get a heavy tent heater or not.

Find the latest price on:

Amazon

We have chosen the electric patio tent heater as our recommended choice from the best tent heaters list. The stylishness, the compactness and the fact that you can suspend this heater from the roof of your tent makes this a great tent heater. Plus, the lack of fumes and the halogen quartz technology makes this tent heater great to use.

If you would like to know more about this topic or if you have enquiries, then feel free to ask below in the comments section. All enquiries are welcome.

• Lucy Gomez
• September 11, 2017
• Tent

Hi there, I’m Lucy Gomez, camp editor at Getcampingwild.com. I grew up in a suburb of Oklahoma and I have been camping my entire life. Camping in the wild is a way of life for me.

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Rating	4 of 5 stars
Design	internal frame bag
Size	extra large
Number of Pockets	6
Max. Load Carried	untested
Price Paid	$76
Pack Weight	6 lbs
Total size	4400-5550 (expanded)

Long Range Bugout bag is created by Sandpiper of California (PiperGear.com). They make various sports bags as well as travel packs, and “bugout bags”. I snagged a used Long Range Bag on eBay last week for testing and reviewing purposes.

This bag is huge, no wonder they call it the Long Range bag. Like most suitcases, there is a zipper in the back that compresses additional 3.5″ of fabric, which adds 1116 cu/in to the main compartment. Unexpanded this pack is around 4400 cubic inches. Expanded it is around 5550 cubic inches. Because of its ‘square’ design, and expandable feature, the Long Range bag reminds me of a travel suitcase. In fact there are two carry handles, and a zippered back compartment to put away the shoulder straps. This can be handy if you fly with this pack, or travel via public transportation. Material is 1000-Denier Cordura, ACU color pattern. Stitching seems pretty good, however the metal carabiner attachments at the end of shoulder straps seem flimsy for the kind of weight you can carry in this pack. The bottom attachment points for the shoulder straps could use reinforcing.

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Rating	3 of 5 stars
Design	Frameless 3 Day Assault Pack
Size	small-med
Number of Pockets	4
Max. Load Carried	40 lbs
Price Paid	$65
Pack Weight	5.5 lbs
Total size	2110 cu inches

A.K.A.: Leapers Assault Pack, Leapers Web Pack or UTG Web Pack.

I bought this pack at the end of the summer in 2007, and used it twice last season. This design is very comfortable. The padding on the shoulder straps is nice and thick, the back panel is padded, and the hip belt is wide. This is especially important because other packs I have seen have only a inch wide strap for the hip belt, and it’s uncomfortable to wear. Especially if you put load on your hips, and it cuts into the skin. UTG designed their hip belt to be 4″ wide, and it has padding inside. Not too much, enough to be comfortable. It has 3 rows of webbing for MOLLE for other web gear. Looks like only 2 (top and bottom) rows should be used for proper attachment of web gear, or maybe just the middle one. UTG used a pad of Velcro to attach the hip belt. It’s like and envelope, and the hip belt goes inside. Take a look at the pictures below to see what I mean. The hip belt can be removed completely.
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Rating	5 of 5 stars
Design	Frameless 3 Day Assault Pack
Size	small-med
Number of Pockets	1
Max. Load Carried	25 lbs
Price Paid	$65
Pack Weight	~4 lbs
Total size	1650+450 cu inches

This is my second MOLLE Assault pack. The original one is first generation Woodland Camo version. I am using the Woodland pack as my BOB, and the Desert Camo version for 2-3 day summer camping trips. Both are my by SDS (Specialty Defense Systems). There are several differences between the first and second generation packs.

1. Shoulder straps are different
2. Gen 2 pack has a waist belt
3. Gen 2 large pocket has a zipper instead of draw-cord
4. Gen 2 has an additional small Velcro pocket on the outside of large pocket
5. Gen 2 has four cinch straps on the sides

Everything else is pretty much the same. Fabric, zippers, buckles and total volume are the same. This pack is constructed from 1000 denier Cordura. The fabric is vulcanized on the inside to make it waterproof. SDS used YKK self-healing zippers, glide easily, and do not break.
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Another good MOLLE accessory from CheaperThanDirt.com is the Medical Bag. Originally designed for combat medics this bag contains more First Aid and surgery items than the Individual Soldier’s first aid kit. There are several variations of this design: three, four and five compartment models. The bag from CTD has 3 compartments, and it can be used as intended or as a small BOB, or a small stuff bag for day hikes. There are 2 MOLLE attachment straps on the back, so it can be secured to anything with PALS webbing. I am pleasantly surprised to find the inside is vulcanized to make the whole bag waterproof, and overall construction is pretty solid. One thing I do not like about CTD MOLLE gear it is somewhat cheaper quality than current US Army issue stuff. SDS makes a lot of Army packs, and they use YKK zippers, which are a big plus in my book. I imagine that most of the bags and pouches at CTD are imported, and do not have the same quality control as US made products.

This bag measures 11″ wide x 12″ tall x 4″ deep. There is an adjustable and removable shoulder strap, and two MOLLE straps. I do wish there were three or four straps to hold it in place securely. I have attached it to one of my backpacks, and if the pack was dropped or thrown around, the medical bag may come off. There is also a carry handle on top, and a quick-release buckle to keep all the compartments together.

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Overall length	7″
Folded length	4.25″
Weight	untested
Steel material	stainless
Blade length	2.25″
Lock Mechanism	none

This multitool came as a part of Winchester 6 piece gift set from Wal Mart. For $10 for the whole set, I could not pass it up. The craftsmanship and materials do not feel as good as my Gerber and Leatherman multitools, and that’s ok. I beleive that tools should be used and abused, and for the price the Winchester can be beat up without breaking the bank.

It is made from stainless steel, and blades feel sharp enough to do small tasks. There are inch and centimeter markings etched into both sides of the handles, to measure something shorter than 8″. On one side there is a standard blade, a saw blade, can/bottle opener and a flat screwdriver bit. On the other side there is a nice serrated blade, a short blade, and a phillips screw driver bit. All the blades swing out when handles are fully closed, and pliers are not exposed. If you swing the handles open, the multitool becomes needle nosed pliers. This design is comfortable because the inside of the handles are smooth, and edges do not cut into your skin.